The high -end fashion industry has always been synonymous with thinness, but for a short moment in 2010, a positive body movement was in the foreground.
He promised to revolutionize the acceptance of bodies of all shapes and sizes, and the welcome curves and called for their inclusion, especially on the runway.
But after 10 years, those familiar with the industry told us that things had turned. Was the body positive direction? With the help of weight loss medications such as OzemPIC, is it backward forever?
We are talking to designers, casting agents and models at the Paris Fashion Week to investigate what is happening.
2010: Positive body era
the Positive body movement He finds his origins in the foggy days in the 1960s and assisted by icons like Marilyn Monroe, who expanded the strict beauty standard in Hollywood.
It was brought to the introduction again in 2010, when Instagram was launched and the influencers began to highlight fashion and beauty outside the magazines and glossy corridors.
This was the famous Kardashian family, whose curves raised BBLS (Brazilian rear surgery) all over the world.
“When a positive body's movement appeared, I felt incredibly empowering and editing,” said Inca, a 28 -year -old model.
“It seemed to be a rebellion – what was always criticized now. It was as if we had finally enough to judge.”
The excessive size models of large brands were booked, including the highly desirable price mark in Rihanna, “Savage X Fenty” launched in 2018.
The billion dollar brand has become known for the amazing runway, which reminds us of a modern alternative to secret Victoria offers, but this time with each type of body offered.
Veliciti Hyuard, a 36 -year -old model, reflects scout in 2011.
“When I received this call from the first stormy modeling agency – which discovered Kate Moss – I thought I was coordinated,” she said.
“Before 2010, the attitudes on the biggest bodies were not positive and I never thought that the excessive model of size was a possibility.
“Seeing this change during the past decade and half may change life emotionally, physically and financially.”
2020s: Ozempic era
But then around 2020, progress began to slow down. It comes in the autumn and winter of 2024, from 8,800 looking across 230 widths, only 0.8 percent was in excess models, Proven reports.
At the same time, a new drug for losing weight used to treat diabetes to the market and a popular rise. Semaglutide, also known as Ozmpic and Wegovy, reduces user appetite, was Approved by NHS For weight loss in 2023.
Celebrities including Elon Musk The drug began to reinforce their newly slim frame and it was only a matter of time before that to consumers.
Since OzemPIC and its counterparts become more commercially for aesthetic purposes, those familiar with the industry claim that they have affected the body's positive movement.
Moya said: “We have seen how quickly the narration shifts, with celebrities and influencers who use surgeries or drugs such as OzemPic to chase what is considered” in Vogue “.
Another model, Jenny said: “When I realized that we were referring to returning, it was positive because I was going to get more jobs.
“But I realized that this now means that I should stay. Now I have to be skinnieast“
Even the editor -in -chief of British Vogue said that Fashion industry “You must take care” Through the direction of the modern return to the use of more skinny models
lucky Tell the BBC Radio 4 program today: “I think OzemPic may have something for it.”
“We are at this moment where we see the pendulum a kind of swinging to thinness” in “often dealt with these things like the direction and do not want to be.”
Then Brian Brand, Namilia, and Virus went to “I love OzemPic” on the runway of the Fashion Week 2024.
Nan Li, the creative director of the brand who claims that the shirt was spelling: “I hit” I love OzemPic “really nerve.
“With the emergence of OzemPic, many people use it. Over the past few years, celebrities have lost their weight and have not talked about it.”
Paris “celebrates the elite”
Quickly until January, when the AW25 Men's Fashion Week falls in Paris and the fans get a Litmus test completely as the brands stand.
Regardless of a selection of designers, including Rick Owns, LGN and Charles Jeffrey Lovebo, I can rely on the hands of how many excess models I saw in a week of offers.
Nan Lee said: “Paris celebrates the election, and the elite means skinny and white.”
“There are a few excess size models (in offers) but they are not really excessive-they are normal in size. They are thrown at each offer to make the brand look positive for the body.”
In the midst of the hustle and bustle of the fashion, Sean Ben told the famous French brand director Forsak, BBC: “The only motivation for the brand is to sell clothes – that's all. I don't think we need to lie about this.
“The positive brands of the body adopted in 2010 because they saw it as a commercial opportunity, and when they saw that it no longer performed performance as they hoped in 2020, they jumped.”
Benin added: “The full transparency – I don't really want to see clothes on a person like me. I want to see him on someone I aspire to show it.”
Gauthier Borsarello, the Fursac Creative Director, laughed at the agreement and said: “I hate my body. I don't want to see clothes for people like me.”
On the other hand, designers such as Charles Jeffrey believe that brands have a moral necessity to thoroughly throw. “The positivity of the body was never a trend for me,” he said. “It was an opportunity to start responsibility.”
Your body is positive in the Charles brand tissue, which is inspired by the scene of nightlife queer. This is easily clear during the Paris Fashion Week.
The designer explained: “People in my programs are people who had clubs. It was never about models, my friends and various forms of body were.
Positive body “I took the back seat now”
The reality seems to be that designers like Charles are an exception to the base. As far as activists resist, those familiar with the industry emphasize that the body is positive behind us.
“Yes, things turned. In 2020 and 2021, we saw more diversity and integration on the corridors-but physically, which took the back seat now,” said Daniel Mitchell Jones, co-founder of the Classification Administration of Modeling Agency.
Daniel said when he sends the curve models to the plot, it is always paid, but the brand is often told this season.
He told the Plus-size Enrika BBC that not only excessive models that are booked less, their agents are actively struggling to secure work in their favor.
She explained: “It is not customary to see the campaigns that feature four sample sizes and only one model of size. This can make you feel like you are just a symbol.”
Inca said these brands often use tactics in campaigns to sign a comprehensive virtue-such as highlighting the signs of expansion on excessive size models, while they are avoided on others.
She said, “She sends a message to her.” We don't actually believe that you look good like the fine models of our skirt. But we accept you because we are good people, so please give us a hard -made earnings, “it is a bad work and I do not support it.”
If you want to change, change your purchase habits. At least, Sean Ben believes: “Everything is driven by the consumer.”
“It is this type of evil circle. Every fashion house gives its copy of what the customer knows, it is their interpretation and returns to the consumer.”
“There is a famous French saying:” If people stop production, people will stop buying. “But the opposite is true.
“Nobody makes you embody you to do anything. It is an education for the customer: in a polite way – educate yourself.”
And one use of bodies as trends is that the pendulum will ultimately swing. Bennan said: “Nothing disappeared, especially in fashion.”