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French red wine faces an “existential” decline if it does not adapt, according to people working in the industry, as younger generations increasingly choose different types of wine. Drinks Or avoid alcohol completely.
Red wine consumption in France has declined by about 90 percent since the 1970s, according to the Professional Council of Wines of Bordeaux (CIVB), the industry association.
Total wine consumption, which includes red, white and rosé, has fallen by more than 80 percent in France since 1945, according to Nielsen survey data, and the decline is accelerating, with Generation Z buying half as much as older millennials.
“The issues around wine – especially red wine – are existential now, and have been problems for more than a decade,” said Spyros Malandrakis, a drinks analyst at Euromonitor International.
He added that the industry was suffering from a “lack of connection with younger generations” and had previously fallen into “a sense of complacency” due to the popularity of wine among baby boomers.
The change in French consumption exacerbates global trends that are hurting the sector, such as people drinking less and changes in tastes. Red wine in particular is going out of fashion among young people in favor of rosé, beer and spirits Alcohol-free options.
“With every generation in France we see change. If the grandfather drinks 300 liters of red wine a year, the father drinks 180 liters and the son 30 litres,” said Jean-Pierre Durand, a member of the CIVB board of directors.
The industry is also facing a sharp decline in demand from China, one of its main export markets, and America Impact of climate change.
The challenges do not reach all wine categories equally. “Big volume and intensely tannic reds are in strong decline, accelerating with generational change,” said wine buyer Thomas Castet.
Some industry leaders expect producers to respond by focusing on higher-quality wines or expanding their offerings from red wines to other products, such as white wines or low-alcohol wines — although the latter requires investment in new vineyards and equipment.
Durand, who also heads wine producer AdVini in southwest Bordeaux, expects there will be little future demand for lower-quality wines, as younger generations prioritize quality over quantity. Some wines sell for €2.50 a bottle in France.
But Durand said overproduction and the presence of many low-quality wines have hurt Bordeaux's image, even though the region is also known for its Saint-Emilion region, which produces high-quality, expensive wines.
Business is also a challenge for some high-end wineries. The 2024 harvest at Château Mouvignon, a small, family-run business in Saint-Émilion, was affected by high heat and mildew, problems faced across the region with climate change.
Brigitte Tribaudeau, who owns and operates the winery, said high-quality wine is still the core of Chateau Mouvignon's production, but she has noticed changes in the habits of younger wine drinkers for years and has begun to adapt.
It began producing white wines in 2018, as well as orange wines, which are very popular among young drinkers. It is now trialling a lower-alcohol wine, which will be ready for sale this year.
The winery has also been certified organic since 2017, which appeals to younger consumers.
“I sensed very early on that drinking patterns were changing — I saw that women, especially the younger women around me, were drinking less, and drinking a lot less red,” Tribodeau said.
Some wineries are reluctant to innovate, either because of cost or adherence to tradition. Switching from red to white wine production requires a significant investment in both new vines and different equipment, and not all growing areas are suitable for the different grapes.
Most winemakers have been resistant to making products such as wine mixers and canned wine, which could be used to recruit new drinkers, Malandrakis said. Many have also been slow to embrace wine tourism and personal marketing, which can appeal to younger consumers who want an experience and a story when they make a purchase.
The pressures prompted the Bordeaux region to begin uprooting up to 9,500 hectares of vines to limit production and prevent the spread of the disease through poorly maintained vineyards. The two-year plan, which starts in 2023, provides for €6,000 per hectare to be uprooted, from a total budget of €57 million funded largely by the government and the CIVB.
“We cannot continue to produce undrinkable wine,” Durand said. “When the model breaks, we adapt.”
