Rebel rule in Idlib indicates what the rest of Syria can expect

The road to Idlib, a remote region in northwestern Syria, still bears the signs of old front lines: trenches, abandoned military positions, rocket shells and munitions.

Until just over a week ago, this was the only area of ​​the country controlled by the opposition.

From Idlib, rebels led by the Islamist group Hay'at Tahrir al-Sham, or Hay'at Tahrir al-Sham, launched a stunning offensive that ousted Bashar al-Assad and ended his family's five-decade dictatorship in Syria.

As a result, they have become the de facto authorities in the country, and appear to be trying to apply their way of governance to the rest of Syria.

In the center of Idlib city, opposition flags, with a green stripe and three red stars, were flying high in public squares and being waved by men and women, old and young, in the wake of Assad's ouster. The graffiti celebrated resistance against the regime.

While destroyed buildings and piles of rubble served as reminders of the not-so-distant war, the repaired homes, recently opened shops and well-maintained roads were testimony that some things had indeed improved. But there were complaints of what was considered harsh sentencing by the authorities.

When we visited earlier this week, the streets were relatively clean, traffic lights and lamp posts were working, and officers were present in the busiest areas. Simple things that are absent in other parts of Syria, and a source of pride here.

Hay'at Tahrir al-Sham has its origins in al-Qaeda, but in recent years it has tried hard to rebrand itself as a nationalist force, far removed from its jihadi past and intent on removing Assad.

As fighters marched into Damascus earlier this month, its leaders spoke of building a Syria for all Syrians. However, it is still labeled a terrorist organization by the US, UK, UN and others, including Türkiye, which supports some Syrian rebels.

The group took control of most of this region of 4.5 million people in 2017, bringing stability after years of civil war.

The administration, known as the Salvation Government, is responsible for distributing water and electricity, collecting garbage, and paving roads.

Taxes collected from companies, farmers, and crossings with Türkiye fund its public services – as well as its military operations.

“During the Assad era, they used to say that Idlib was the forgotten city,” said Dr. Hamza al-Maraweh, a cardiologist, as he treated patients in a hospital set up in an old post office warehouse.

He moved from Aleppo with his wife in 2015 when the war there intensified, but he had no plans to return, even with the opposition taking control of the city.

“We have seen a lot of development here. There are a lot of things in Idlib that did not exist under the Assad regime.”

While it has softened its tone, seeking international recognition amid domestic opposition, HTS has rescinded some of the strict social rules it imposed when it came to power, including a dress code for women and a ban on music in schools.

Some people cite recent protests, including against government-imposed taxes, as evidence that a certain level of criticism is tolerated, in contrast to Assad's repression.

Activist Fouad Sayida said, “It is not complete democracy, but there is freedom.”

“There were some problems in the beginning, but in recent years, they have been behaving better and trying to change.”

The woman is originally from Idlib, and now lives in Türkiye, where he runs the NGO Violet. Like thousands of Syrians, Assad's fall meant he could visit his city again – in his case, for the first time in a decade.

But demonstrations were also organized against what some say is authoritarian rule. Experts say: to consolidate power, The group targeted extremists, absorbed rivals, and imprisoned dissidents.

“How the government will act in Syria as a whole is a different story,” the woman said. Syria is a diverse country, and after decades of repression and violence perpetrated by the regime and its allies, many are hungry for justice. “People are still celebrating, but they are also worried about the future.”

We tried to interview a local official, but were told that they had all gone to Damascus to help with the new government.

An hour's drive from Idlib, in the small Christian village of Konya, church bells rang for the first time in a decade on December 8 to celebrate Assad's ouster.

The area near the Turkish border was bombed during the civil war that began in 2011 when Assad crushed peaceful protests against him and many of its residents fled.

Only 250 people remained.

Monk Fadi Azar said: “Syria is better since the fall of Assad.”

However, the rise of Islamists has raised concerns that minorities, including Assad's Alawites, may be at risk, despite Hay'at Tahrir al-Sham's messages reassuring religious and ethnic groups that they will be protected.

Friar Azar said: “In the past two years, they (Hay’at Tahrir al-Sham) began to change… Before that, it was very difficult.”

Property was confiscated and religious rituals were restricted.

“They gave (our community) more freedom, and invited other Christians who were refugees to return to reclaim their lands and homes.”

But is the change real? Can they be trusted? “What can we do? We have no other choice,” he said. “We trust them.”

The activist, Ms. Sayida, asked why even opponents hesitate to criticize the group.

“They are now the heroes… (but) we have red lines. We will not allow dictators again, whether al-Julani or anyone else,” he said, referring to Ahmed al-Sharaa, the leader of Hay'at Tahrir al-Sham who dropped his nom de guerre Abu. Muhammad Al-Julani after coming to power.

“If they act like dictators, people are ready to say no, because now they have their freedom.”